Noir & Lin
GSM Guide: 180, 240, 400 & 440 GSM Explained
GSM is the number you'll see on every Noir & Lin product, and it tells you more about how a t-shirt or hoodie will feel than almost anything else on the page. Here's what it means, what common weights like 240, 400 and 440 GSM feel like, and which weight suits what you'll actually use it for.
Quick answer: GSM means grams per square metre and measures fabric weight, not overall quality. For example, 180 GSM t-shirts generally feel lighter and more breathable, while 240 GSM tees feel thicker and more structured. Hoodies around 400–440 GSM are heavier and typically warmer; fibre and construction matter too.
What does GSM mean?
GSM stands for grams per square metre. It's the weight of one square metre of the fabric. A higher GSM means more fabric in the same space, so the garment feels thicker, heavier and more structured. A lower GSM feels lighter, thinner and more breathable.
GSM isn't the only thing that decides quality. The fibre (for example cotton vs a cotton-poly blend), how the yarn is spun and how the fabric is finished all matter too. But for comparing how heavy, warm and structured two pieces will feel, GSM is the most useful single number.
GSM ranges at a glance
As a rough general guide (brands and fabrics vary):
| Garment | Lightweight | Midweight | Heavyweight |
|---|---|---|---|
| T-shirts | Under about 160 GSM | About 160–200 GSM | About 220 GSM and above |
| Sweatshirts & hoodies | Under about 280 GSM | About 280–350 GSM | About 400 GSM and above |
What does 240 GSM mean in a t-shirt?
A 240 GSM t-shirt is a heavyweight tee. It feels noticeably thicker than a typical 180 GSM tee, holds its shape better, and is far less see-through. That structure is why 240 GSM is popular for oversized streetwear tees: the fabric drapes in clean lines instead of clinging. All our oversized t-shirts use 240 GSM cotton.
What does 400 GSM mean in a hoodie?
A 400 GSM hoodie is a heavyweight hoodie. It's thick, warm and dense, with a structured feel that keeps its shape when you wear it oversized. It's a good pick if you feel the cold or live somewhere with a proper winter. Our oversized hoodie and zip hoodie are 400 GSM.
What does 440 GSM mean?
440 GSM is heavier still: a dense, premium fleece that feels substantial and very warm. It's at the heavy end for everyday hoodies, so it suits cold weather rather than mild days. Our 440 GSM solid oversized hoodie is the heaviest piece we make.
Our fabrics, from lightest to heaviest
| GSM | Fabric | Feels like | Where you'll find it |
|---|---|---|---|
| 160 | 100% Supima cotton | Light, smooth and soft | RISE Supima cotton t-shirt |
| 180 | 100% cotton | Lightweight and breathable | Regular-fit graphic t-shirts |
| 220 | 100% cotton Airtex | Textured, airy, holds a collar | Men's solid polo |
| 240 | 100% super-combed cotton | Heavyweight, with a structured drape | Oversized t-shirts |
| 240 | 95% cotton, 5% elastane | Substantial, with a little stretch | STRATAGEM stretch tee |
| 300 | Brushed fleece | Soft and warm, easy to layer | Sweatshirts and regular-fit hoodies |
| 400 | 90% cotton, 10% polyester brushed fleece | Thick, warm and heavy | Oversized hoodie and zip hoodie |
| 440 | Brushed fleece | Our heaviest, most structured piece | 440 GSM solid oversized hoodie |
Exact fabric composition for every product is listed on its product page.
180 vs 240 GSM t-shirts: which should you pick?
- Pick 180 GSM if you want a light, breathable everyday tee for hot and humid days, or for layering under a jacket or shirt.
- Pick 240 GSM if you want the thicker, structured feel of premium streetwear. Heavier fabric drapes more cleanly in an oversized cut and shows less of what's underneath, which is why all our oversized tees use it.
300 vs 400 GSM hoodies: which should you pick?
- Pick 300 GSM for mild winters, cool evenings, air-conditioned offices and travel. It's warm without being bulky.
- Pick 400 to 440 GSM if you feel the cold or live somewhere with a proper winter. It's noticeably thicker and holds its shape, which suits an oversized fit.
Still deciding between a hoodie and a crewneck? See hoodie vs sweatshirt.
Frequently asked questions
Is higher GSM always better?
No. Higher GSM is heavier and warmer, not automatically better. A 180 GSM tee is the right choice for a hot day, and a 440 GSM hoodie would be too much for most of the year in many parts of India. Pick the weight that matches how and where you'll wear it.
Is 240 GSM good for a t-shirt?
Yes, if you want a thick, structured, premium-feeling tee. It's heavier and warmer than a standard tee, so on very hot days a 180 GSM tee may be more comfortable.
Is a 400 GSM hoodie too heavy for India?
For most of the year in hot cities, often yes. It's best for winter, cold mornings, hill stations and North Indian winters. For mild winters, a 300 GSM hoodie or sweatshirt is usually enough.
Does heavier fabric shrink less?
Weight alone doesn't decide shrinkage. Follow the care instructions on each product page (cold wash, inside-out, low tumble dry) to help any fabric keep its shape.
How do I know which size to choose?
Every product page has a size guide with measurements. For oversized tees, see our oversized t-shirt size guide.